“Should I take the community solar offer in my mailbox?”
Answered by Rosa Delgado, WCL editor · September 14, 2026
Dear Rosa,
We rent, so rooftop solar is out. Now we've had three mailers in a month about "community solar" promising 10% off our electric bill with no equipment and no cost to sign up.
It sounds too easy. Is this a real thing, and what's the catch?
— A reader in Minnesota
Letters are composites of common reader questions, edited for length; details changed.
Rosa's teardown
"It sounds too easy." That instinct is worth keeping, but in this case the idea itself is legitimate. The catch, when there is one, is in the contract details, and those vary from mailer to mailer.
What community solar is
A solar farm is built somewhere in your utility's area. Households and businesses subscribe to a share of its output. The power goes into the grid like any other power. Your utility then gives you a bill credit for your share of what the farm produced. You pay the subscription company for that share, usually at less than the value of the credit. The difference is your saving.
Whether it exists for you depends on your state. Some states have created programs by law or regulation, and others haven't. The U.S. Department of Energy runs a National Community Solar Partnership with consumer resources if you want the background.
The questions, one at a time
Is the 10% real?
It can be. Many subscriptions are priced as a percentage off the value of the credits you receive. If your credits are worth $40 in a month and the discount is 10%, you pay the company $36 and save $4. The key point: 10% off the credits, not 10% off your whole bill. Your delivery charges, customer charge and anything the credits don't cover stay the same. Ask which one the mailer means.
Is there an escalator?
Some contracts are priced as a fixed rate per kWh instead of a percentage, and some have a rate that rises by a set percentage each year. A fixed price that rises yearly can end up costing more than the credits are worth if utility rates don't keep pace. A percentage-off structure moves with the credit value, so it's harder to end up behind.
How long is the term?
Terms range widely. Some are month to month; some run for years. A long term isn't automatically bad, but it raises the stakes of everything else on this list.
What does it cost to leave?
Look for an early termination fee or a requirement to find someone to take over your share. "No cost to sign up" says nothing about the cost to cancel.
What happens when we move?
For renters this one matters most. Good contracts let you transfer the subscription to a new address in the same utility territory, or cancel without penalty if you move out of it. Find this clause and read it twice.
Will we get two bills?
Often yes: your utility bill shows the credit, and a separate bill comes from the subscription company. Some programs consolidate them. Either way, you'll want to check the credit on your utility bill each month against what the company charges you.
Sorting the mailers
Put the three mailers side by side. Here's a simple sheet for comparing them once you have each full contract.
| Contract line | Mailer A | Mailer B | Mailer C |
|---|---|---|---|
| Discount basis (% of credits, or fixed rate) | |||
| Annual escalator | |||
| Term | |||
| Cancellation fee | |||
| Moving clause | |||
| Credit check required |
If a company won't give you the full contract before you sign, cross it off.
Why the verdict is a phone call
Before any of that, call your utility. Ask two questions: does it credit a community solar program in your area, and is the specific project named in the mailer enrolled? The utility is the one applying the credits, so it can tell you whether the project is real and how credits will appear on your bill. Some state energy offices or utility commissions also publish lists of approved projects.
If the project checks out and the contract is a percentage off with no escalator and a fair moving clause, it can be a sensible way for renters to save a bit. Just know the saving is modest by design. It's 10% of a slice, not of the whole bill.
The verdict
Call them. One phone call with the right question is the fix.
Community solar is real and can be a fair deal, but mailers vary a lot. Call your utility to confirm the program and the project, then read the contract's discount, term and exit lines before you sign.
What to do this week
- 1Call your utility and ask whether it runs or credits a community solar program, and whether the project named in the mailer is enrolled.
- 2Ask the subscription company for the full contract, not the brochure.
- 3Find the discount basis, the term, the cancellation terms and the moving clause, and write each one down.
- 4Check your state energy office or utility commission for a list of approved projects or consumer guidance.
The usual fine print from the desk: this is general information about how bills like this work, not advice for your account. Rates, rules and fees differ by state and provider, so check the numbers on your own paperwork before you act.
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